Tips in Fixing Power Gear Levelers

Power gear levelers are normally quite reliable. However, we all know that even the best product out there can have some problems. Before we discuss the different things you can do to troubleshoot, let's first take a look at the basics:

A power gear leveler system has these components:

1) Control panel -this is located on the driver's area and is used to control.
2) Electric pump -this pump moves the hydraulic fluid around the system and creates the force necessary to move this device.
3) Solenoid valves - four valves control the movement of the hydraulic fluid.
4) Hydraulic fluid reservoir- this contains the hydraulic fluid whenever you are not using this unit.
5) Jacks -these support the RV. Raised and lowered by the hydraulic fluid, the jacks provide the surface for the RV.

Now, here is how the whole power gear leveler works:

Pushing one of the four buttons on the control panel causes valves to open or close and thus, the hydraulic fluid is forced into the hydraulic jacks, raising and lowering them. You can control the height of the RV because this leveler works on a ground system, which means that the solenoid valves remain open as long as you push the button on the panel.

A control panel has four buttons. However, you cannot control each jack independently: The "front" button controls two jacks at the front of the RV, the "rear" button raises and lowers the rear jacks simultaneously and the right and left buttons control each side of the RV.

Here are some problems you may encounter with a power gear leveler:

"Jacks down" alarm is on

-this problem may be caused by having insufficient hydraulic fluid in the system. To check the hydraulic fluid level, you have to make sure that the jacks are retracted. To make things easier for you, there is a measuring stick located in the hydraulic fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be 7/8" for square reservoirs. If your fluid level is low, you should check the system for any leaks and have it repaired.

Power Problems

If you have problems regarding the power of the power gear leveler, you might want to check one of the fuses that can be located in the control panel.

Maintenance

They say that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. In order to prevent these problems from occurring, you need to regularly take care of your power gear leveler. Here are some maintenance tips you should follow:

1) Regularly wipe the jacks - You should wipe down the extended jacks regularly to prevent them from sticking. You should also check for any loose soil or rocks that might get into the power gear leveler system. This is important as foreign objects may cause huge damage to the power gear leveler.

2) Lubricate- Another thing you should never forget to do is to lubricate your jacks. This makes extending and retracting smoother for your unit. Make sure to use a lubricant that does not attract dirt or dust.

3) Use pads - instead of directly placing the jacks on the ground, use pads. This serves the purpose of giving your power gear leveler a more solid footing and also minimizes the effects of weathering on the system.

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Portable Car Lifts for Home Garage

Various auto shop equipment is proposed on the Internet and portable car lifts for your home garage are one of the offers. Automotive garage equipment links will bring you everything you like from air compressors, welders, battery chargers, jumpstarters, brake washers, air jacks, wheel balancers, engine stands, and booster packs to automotive, motorcycle and car lifts. Just click on the links and choose if you are going to save money and improve your home garage equipment.

Many companies presenting the best portable auto lifts for home garage have decades of experience on the market and their tradition of manufacturing is excellent as they have an unprecedented insight into manufacturing automotive service equipment. Durability and longevity distinguish portable car lifts of some famous and popular brands. You can give different names to auto lifts and auto lift accessories and call them garage lifts, vehicle lifts, or auto lifts but if you choose a good and reputable trading mark, you will have garage equipment with advanced features and good design as well as with extra safety measures.

Whether you choose two-post, four-post or mid-rise car lift, reliable companies deliver their promises and you will feel that you possess the best portable auto lift in your garage.

Portable car lifts for home garage work like their permanent siblings but do everything on a smaller scale. Portable lifting equipment can either have its own driving mechanism if it is large, or it can be carried in another vehicle like scissor lift types of car lifts. Portable auto lift equipment has different functioning principles. They can work based on principle of hydraulics or may be powered by electricity or diesel. Talk to a chosen company agent to clarify whether a portable car lift is suitable for your home garage and your individual demands. Choose the best equipment for your home garage.

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Water in the Basement

As many as seven out of ten homes in New England have some degree of a problem with water in the basement or the crawl space. This article is designed to educate homeowners and home buyers about the various types of water problems and their causes and cures.

The impact of excessive basement or crawl space moisture in a home is wide-ranging, from severe, long-term problems such as dry rot in major structural members to fewer serious problems like mildew, peeling paint, warped paneling and generally unusable space.

The first thing to understand about water problems is that there are no truly waterproof houses. Any house can and will leak given the proper conditions, but uncovering signs of past leakage can be challenging. Every leaky basement or crawl space is a unique problem and must be studied individually to determine possible causes and corrective measures.

In general, all water problems can be traced to one of three causes:
1. leakage of water through walls and cracks,
2. seepage of moisture from the exterior walls to the interior, or
3. condensation of atmospheric moisture on interior walls.

The most serious is number one - leakage, because this can involve a substantial amount of water. It is normally very obvious and occurs during a heavy rainfall or when snow is melting. An excessive amount of water builds up in the soil around the foundation walls, forcing its way through cracks or other defects in poured concrete walls - such as small holes around form wires or through mortar joints in concrete block walls.

Leakage occurs in homes built on sites that have high ground water level, dense clay or other subterranean conditions, which inhibit adequate drainage of water away from the foundation. Leakage may occur in any soil type, but is more likely in areas near marshes or hills. If the area around the foundation has been improperly backfilled or graded, the situation can be even worse. During extremely wet periods, considerable flooding may result.

Note: if you are considering buying a home, you can identify areas with a high water table or impervious soils by contacting the local soil conservation service or the state department of agriculture.

Seepage of moisture from the exterior walls is similar to leakage but usually is not as serious. It is evidenced by large areas of dampness on the foundation walls, rather than by water leaking through a particular spot. It will normally be greatest at the base of the wall.

Active leakage or seepage is caused by excessive water pressure that builds up on the outside of the basement walls when the soil around the foundation becomes saturated. The lack of positive grade (ground level running away from the foundation) or the accumulation of rainwater around the foundation or in window/vent wells will also contribute to the problem. The seepage problem may be compounded by porous masonry walls, deteriorated joints, or cracks that allow easy entry of water into the basement or crawl space.

Condensation can look a lot like seepage, but here moisture comes from air inside the basement or crawl space, not from an outside source though seepage can be a contributing factor to a condensation problem. During warm, humid weather, the moisture in the warm air inside the basement changes to a liquid state when it comes into contact with the cool masonry walls, which then seem to "sweat." It can also happen during colder months when warm air is discharged by a clothes dryer or similar appliance. Moisture from this air condenses on the cooler walls in the form of droplets, which may be mistaken for seepage from outside.

Condensation is the most easily corrected moisture problem in basements or crawl spaces. The most important aspect of dealing with a condensation problem is adequate ventilation.

In cool dry weather, keep the basement windows open whenever possible. On hot, humid days, keep them closed. In crawl spaces, make sure there is adequate cross ventilation to keep the area dry.

In some cases you may wish to consider installing temperature control vents that are designed to open and close automatically according to the outside temperature. These vents have a spring that opens the vents gradually starting at 40 degrees until they are completely open at 70 degrees. In addition, every crawl space should have a good vapor barrier on the ground in order to keep moisture in the ground and not on the structural members.

Another source of condensation moisture is air-conditioning duct work. During warm weather a tremendous amount of moisture forms on these ducts in basements and crawl spaces and contributes to the overall moisture problem. To correct this, the homeowner should wrap these ducts with insulation to keep the warm air from the cold metal. Finally, for condensation the homeowners may wish to install a dehumidifier that will help maintain a constant humidity at all times.

Correcting seepage and leakage can range from fairly inexpensive to very expensive depending on the cause. The homeowner should begin at the least expensive corrections and move to the more expensive corrections only if the problem persists. The possible corrections are:

1. Install, extend, or repair gutters and down spouts. 90% of all seepage and leakage have its source right here. If the gutters and down spouts are not performing their intended function, they will allow huge amounts of water to pour next to the foundation. We recommend that the homeowner extend down spouts a minimum of five feet from the foundation using black corrugated extension pipes that are available at most home improvement stores.

2. If needed, install clear plastic window vent well covers to keep water from leaking through these areas.

3. Check adjacent driveways, walkways, patios, etc., to be sure there is positive drainage away from the house.

4. If seepage is occurring through the concrete block walls, test two coats of waterproofing paint or compound on a basement wall problem area. If the test is successful after several weeks of trial, cover the entire problem area.

5. If seepage or leakage is occurring through holes or cracks larger than 1/8 inch, these holes must be cleaned out and patched. For small cracks or holes, simply wire brush the blemish and fill completely (do not leave air pockets) with hydraulic cement or silicon masonry caulking that is designed for use on masonry materials. For larger cracks or holes with considerable seepage a dovetail groove (wider inside the material than at the surface) must be chiseled out before patching.

More extensive leakage solutions, which can be expensive and time consuming, are as follows:
1. Install a "weep pipe" baseboard and sump pump system for moderately severe situations caused by a high water table.

2. Use a combination of drain tiles installed under the floor at the perimeter of the interior foundation wall with weep pipes and then install a sump pit. To install this type of system, the floor must be broken up and then repaired appropriately.

3. Excavation of the exterior foundation may be necessary in extremely severe situations in order to seal the exterior foundation wall with a continuous waterproof membrane as well as to install exterior drain tiles to a dry well or drainage area. The homeowner should also consider insulating the exterior of the foundation wall before backfilling. If this does not correct the problem, the floor may need to be jack hammered and re-poured over a continuous waterproof membrane.

The winter and mid summer months are the best times to track down and solve minor leaks. With this in mind arm yourself with a piece of chalk to mark wet areas during spring and fall rains for future repair. If you have water in your basement, you're not alone and there are solutions.

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This is one of Schindler's briefly sold 321A elevators in Kings Plaza. It's not in great shape - quite noisy and the fixtures are in subpar condition; in fact one of the floor buttons is wearing out and I don't ever recall seeing that lantern work in the past 5 years. Still, I like the discrete-lit cab and the view is nice. This is not a 330A, as it was installed right around Jan 2001; the 330A was introduced later that year. Also, this elevator has a mechanical bell alarm, never found on 330A's. I managed to get a decent take despite it being so busy that day. BTW, if you're one of those skeptics that thinks I made up the 321A, well here is my source: www.schindler.com Brand: Schindler Installed: 2001 Machine: Holeless Dual-Jack Hydraulic Floors Served: *1, 2 Fixtures: MT Fear/DT Index: Mild

Buying a Used Motorhome

Registration Documents
Check the motorhome's registration document carefully. In particular, look at the model and type, and taxation class details. Avoid a motorhome whose vehicle registration document carries incorrect details under either of those two headings.

Service History
Make sure you buy a motorhome that has a service history. At the very least you should ask to see the previous MOT certificates so that you can check whether or not the claimed mileage is genuine.

Wheel Tread
Check that the tread on all tyres has worn evenly and that there are no cracks or splits in the walls. Check the inside tyre walls. Uneven tread wear could be an indication of more serious problems, so walk away.

Check underneath
Check the chassis and exhaust system for corrosion. Look for obvious signs of oil leaks and inspect the condition of the hydraulic pipes, electrical cables, water and waste pipes.

Outside Condition
Look at the sides of the motorhome, from each end, for signs of dents and other damage. In the case of aluminium sides, also check for signs of corrosion which are likely to manifest itself by tiny pinholes where the paint has come away. Also, signs of paint over-spray can mean a poor bodywork repair following an accident. If it looks serious, it probably is, so walk away. Gaps in the sealant, or sealant which is no longer sticking to the bodywork, are signs that resealing is necessary, which is certain to be expensive. Also, don't forget to check the roof - a dirty top-side may be concealing damage, for breaks in the sealant.

Inside Condition
In the case of a coachbuilt or A-class motorhome, press the walls inside and ceiling firmly to check for any signs of softness which would indicate possible water ingress. In particular, check in the corners under the seats and base units because this is often where water ingress first appears. Stained wallboard is another adverse sign which should not be ignored.

Windows
Check all plastic windows in the motorhome for gouges and deep scratch damage. Scratches can often be polished out but deep marks or other damage may mean that the window has to be replaced - a plastic window for a motorhome is an expensive item. While you are examining the windows, gently lift the seal in different areas - if the frame is black, this is almost certainly due to water ingress.

Flooring
Make sure you walk all over the floor, feeling for soft spots which may indicate delamination. It is possible to repair this but it may be a sign of more significant structural problems, now or in the future.

Bathroom
In the bathroom, check the condition of the sealant around the toilet, shower and basin. If a mat is fitted in the shower tray, lift it to check for cracks in the tray. Depending on the age of the motorhome it can sometimes be impossible to find a replacement for a damaged item such as this.
 
Owner's Manual
Ask to see the owners' manual, and suppliers' instructions for the various items of equipment in the motorhome. Careful owners will have kept them.

These checks are far from exhaustive, but they offer some areas to think about when looking over the motorhome. A well looked after motorhome will keep its value and could well be a great investment for all those holidays both home and abroad. Just like when buying an expensive car, it is well worth the time looking over your investment thoroughly before parting with your cash.

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Home Foundation Support for Safety

Most foundation support systems are used to keep the house in good condition, and to keep a home completely safe. If the foundation of a home crumbles, sags, or is overly compromised, this presents very serious safety concerns for families. Protecting the life of your home is also a very important investment considering one of your largest assets is your home. Different types of foundations can pose different safety threats, and will have different types of anchor support systems to compensate for the damage.

Many circumstances might arise that make a foundation need to be jacked up to a different elevation. The way this is done is using hydraulic jack systems with helical anchors that drive deep into the ground beneath the home. This specific process also does not disturb your landscaping and yard too much, keeping a clean look for the exterior of the home. By going through this relatively easy process, it will make your home safer against flooding, and against weak soil that can allow your foundation to sag.

Basement walls are a large concern when it comes to the integrity of the overall home. The reason being is because these walls are usually load-bearing walls, and these walls are up against soil that surrounds your home. Having cracks in these walls can cause leaking, which will make basements very musty, and possibly moldy. A crack usually will start small, and grow at a rapid pace if not properly treated as soon as possible. A method of reinforcing these exterior basement walls is to use carbon fiber support plates that give these walls the support they need so the integrity is consistently at one hundred percent.

Most homes are sitting on a slab of concrete that acts as the foundation. These slabs over time can sag, crack, and even begin to sink. To not only fix these types of damages, but also to prevent them as well, there are slab support systems that can properly bring your slab together. The floor will be raised with a hydraulic jack, and then filled in with concrete. This will make your foundation like new, and keep the safety of your home intact. A grout system can be used as well. This grout is forced under the sagging areas of the foundation to ensure the structural integrity of the floor is strong enough for your home to be completely safe. The entire purpose of supporting and fixing foundations is to keep a home safe, and keep the home intact for value considerations down the road.

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DIY Brake Pad Replacement - How to Change Pads and Avoid Common Mistakes

Doing your own brake job, if done properly can save a lot of money. But if a brake job is done improperly it could very well cost more than if a professional was paid to do the job to begin with. I've done hundreds of brake jobs in the last 25 years as a Master Auto Technician and in this article I'll outline some of the basics. I also point out some common mistakes that beginners and even pros can make when doing a brake job.

Pulsating?

If the car shakes when the brakes are applied, this means that the brake rotors are warped. Excessive side to side run-out causes the car to shake especially when stopping quickly from highway speeds. The rotors can be machined or resurfaced to make them true again as long as they are thick enough. If there is no pulsation or brake shake, brake pads can be replaced without machining them. In my experience though, if machining or replacing the rotors is not done when doing a brake job, most of the time there will be excessive squeaking noises after a very short time. I recommend taking care of the rotors by having them machined or replaced when doing the brake job.

Lifting the Car Safely

Sounds a little too basic doesn't it? I've seen many people under cars without having a jack stand in place for safety. Hydraulic jacks are great, but what if one slips or fails in some way while someones under the car working? I can't emphasize enough the importance of having the car safely raised with a jack stand in place, just in case the car falls for some reason. A jack stand under the car is very important for anytime work is to be done under the car, like for oil changes, starter replacement or any other job that could crush a person if the jack failed. I once worked with a mechanic that was changing his starter at home. His hydraulic jack had a slow leak and before he realized that the car was lowering gradually onto him, he was pinned under the car and couldn't get out from under it. The compressing of his chest only allowed him to take very shallow breaths of air, which limited his ability to cry for help! Luckily a friend stopped by, saw what was happening and raised the car for him. If not for luck this could have had a totally different outcome, his mistake could have cost him his life.

Removing Wheels, Calipers and Rotors

After removing the wheels find the caliper bolts and check to see what type of head the bolts have to determine what tools will be needed. Common fasteners will have either regular bolt heads, allen or torx. Typically there will be two bolts holding the caliper and two bolts holding the caliper bracket. Usually just the caliper can be removed if just replacing the brake pads. Suspend the caliper with an elastic cord or something similar to prevent the weight of the caliper from possibly damaging the brake hose. If the rotor is being removed to be machined or replaced most of the time the caliper bracket will need to be removed as well. Rotors will either just slide off or on older style setups will be held on by the wheel bearings. Most cars today will have rotors that slide off. The wheel bearings on this design are not serviceable, meaning they are lifetime greased and can only be replaced when they fail so they are not repacked with grease during a brake job like in the past.

Pushing the Piston

Pushing the brake caliper piston back in is required to install the new brake pads. The piston slowly extends out as the brake pads wear. This is why no brake adjustment is needed for the disc brake system, it's basically self adjusting. Big channel lock pliers can be used to compress the piston back into the caliper. There are also brake tools that can be used to push the piston back in. A big C-clamp used to be my favorite method for returning the piston back into the caliper. If working on rear disc brakes, a piston wind back tool like the KD 41540 (one of DenLors best sellers) is usually required to push and turn the pistons back in. It is recommended to open the brake bleeder screw when pushing the piston, this allows it to go back in easier and prevents possible damage to the master cylinder and/or ABS (Anti Lock Brakes) pump or valves from forcing old fluid back into the system. Closing the bleeder valve immediately after the caliper piston is pushed back in will insure that bleeding the brakes will not be necessary. If dust boots in the caliper are broken, caliper replacement is necessary. Broken boots will allow moisture and dirt to enter the surrounding area of the piston and will cause it to stick or seize. There are slides on some caliper brackets that can freeze up or seize also that can cause uneven pad wear. The slides should be taken apart and lubricated with silicone gel or disc brake grease. The slides must work freely for the brakes to work properly.

Installing the Brake Pads and Calipers

Take note of any possible differences in left side brake pads and right side brake pads. Also there is sometimes differences in inboard and outboard brake pads. Obviously the friction part of the brake pad goes towards the rotor. My uncle a long time ago, before I ever started working on cars did a brake job on his Cadillac. I remember hearing that he placed the brake pads in backwards! He ruined his brake rotors. It seems like an impossible mistake, but when you're not familiar with what you're doing anything is possible. With aftermarket brake pads, most of the time they will come with their own noise insulators that fit onto the back of the pads. Some will have adhesive backs that will have plastic to peel off before installing, others may have tabs built into them. Note that if these are supplied, the OE (Original Equipment) pad insulators will not be re-used. After the pads are in place, be careful not to TWIST the brake caliper hoses when putting the calipers back on. It's a common mistake to twist them and the hoses can kink on turns.

Pump the Brake Pedal!

After everything is back together, it's time for a test drive. But first pump the brake pedal before putting the car in gear! The pedal will go to the floor and you may be headed for a crash if you don't. When the pedal is pumped the pistons are pushed out and the pedal becomes firm. There was an auto technician that I worked with that forgot to pump the brakes after doing a brake job. He backed out of his service bay, when he hit the the brakes the car kept going and he drove into the car that was half way up on the rack behind him. It broke the rear window of the car he was driving, luckily there was no other damage.

There are many types of brake systems but most disc brakes are basically the same. Following the steps I've listed here should help in replacing your brake pads. But if you are not completely confident, it's always a good idea to ask a friend that has some hands on experience to help guide you through your first brake job.

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Foundation Repair

The principal function of a foundation of a home is to transfer the weight of a structure to its underlying soil and rocks. One of the factors that bring about the need for foundation repairs is improper foundation settling. Foundation settlement can devalue structures and also render them unsafe. Building on expansive clay, compressive or improperly contracted fill soils and improper maintenance in and around foundations are some of the major reasons of improper foundation settling. Another reason for improper foundation settlement is undetected or unsuspected air pockets in the ground below the area of construction. These may cave in and cause the integrity of the foundation to be compromised.

General symptoms of a structure needing foundation repairs are bulging or cracked walls and doors that don't close properly. Building on expansive soils is the main culprit for foundation settlement. When only one part of the foundation either settles or heaves, cracks are formed in the foundation. The exterior warning signs of improper floor settling are rotation of walls, displaced moldings, cracked bricks and foundation and separation around doors and windows from the walls. Interior warning signs of improper floor settling are cracks on the floor, sheet rock and misalignment in doors and windows.

There are many ways of doing foundation repair. Cement, stone, steel or wood were used extensively in past techniques. They would be forced into the ground in a bid to salvage the strength of these foundations. However, this type of repair work has been known to be futile. Two of the most successful ways of foundation repairs are slab jacking and the Piering method. Piering is also known as hydraulic jacking.

Slab jacking is the process of adding grout beneath a slab or beam. This produces a lifting force and restores the said beam or slab to almost its original elevation and adds to its strength. Care should be taken that the amount of sand should be perfect while adding grout.

During Piering, steel posts are driven through unstable soil. Hydraulic jacks are used to stabilize concrete slabs which are weakened due to the changes taking place in the underlying soil. Steel beams are used in the Piering method because concrete has great compressive strength. Though Piers are able to transfer huge downward loads without the help of reinforcing steel, steel is used in the piers for prevention of the pier from being pulled apart or sheared by forces of the expansive soils. The repairs normally take 21 to 30 days, however this time frame can vary depending on soil conditions and weather delays.

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Step 1 - remove the drive shaft from the axel and transmission. This is the first step in removing the T-5 Tremec transmission and bell housing where the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing are located. This has been a good little truck and no car payment for the past six years - that's right six years. All of this work can be done with standard ratchet and sock set, a pair of drive up ramps or Jack and Jack Stands. You'll also need a fairly good size floor jack to support the transmission when the supports come off. That's it.

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Oil Rig Construction is Not a One Horse Show

Oil rig construction is a specialized field. It requires unique equipment and specially trained employees. There are two types of oil rigs, the ones on land and the ones offshore. Both require different equipment and training. Drilling rigs can be small and portable. Oil rigs are huge. They have to drill through thousands of meters of ground. They have large mud pumps that circulate the slurry or drilling mud. The mud is used to keep the drill bit cool. The drilling mud goes through the drill bit and up the casing annulus. This cools the bit and removes the waste material as the well is drilled. The hoists in the rig need to lift hundreds of tons of pipe. Other equipment is used to extract the oil or natural gas. Some remote locations require living courters and catering for crews. All of this can be considered part of the constructions.

Offshore oil rig construction needs to provide everything. This includes living space to the equipment required to process crude oil. A fixed drilling platform is built on concrete or steel legs that are anchored directly into the seabed. The legs support the deck. The deck has room for drilling rigs, oil production facilities and crew accommodations. A compliant tower is also a fixed structure. It has narrow flexible towers and a piled foundation instead of concrete or steel legs. Semi-submersible platforms have legs with buoyancy tanks or pontoon-like structures. The platform can be moved as need be. They are anchored by cable anchors when not being moved.

Jack-up rigs are the most common drilling platform. It has supporting legs that stand on the sea floor. The columns or legs can be moved up and down using a hydraulic or electrical system. When the legs are up the rig can be moved to a new location. At the new location, the legs or columns are moved down until they are on the sea floor, Tension-leg platform is moored using tethers or tendons at each corner. A Spar drilling platform has about 90% of its structure underwater. It uses a single vertical cylinder to support a deck. It works under the same principle a buoy does. Each one of these oil rigs meets a different need.

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Motor Mount Replacement - Changing Engine Mounts For Looseness and Vibration

Worn engine and transmission mounts can be the cause of clunks, thumps and vibration. The purpose of the motor and transmission mounts, besides holding them securely is to insulate the vibration from the engine and transmission from the uni-body or frame of the vehicle. In fact some manufacturers even call them insulators NOT motor mounts. Sometimes motor mounts can be collapsed, greatly reducing their ability to absorb vibration from the engine. Collapsed mounts are the hardest to diagnose, since the rubber does not have to appear worn. Usually when checking engine mounts, one person will be in the driver's seat power braking while another very trusting individual checks for excessive movement in the mounts!

Looking at the mounts with a light while power braking in drive and reverse is typically done since broken mounts can allow for more movement in one direction or the other. Another way to check for worn mounts is to rock the car back and forth with your knees on the bumper - this is a quick check that' easy to do by yourself with the engine off and the car in park. If you choose to check the mounts this way, make sure that the hood is supported well. On more than one occasion, I've caught the car hood when it was closing because of weak hood supports. Some motor mounts can be visibly checked for worn or split rubber without the need of torquing the engine back and forth.

When changing motor and transmission mounts, the car should be supported by a floor jack and a block of wood or supported from above with an engine support bar. I've also used jack stands and jack screws under the car whiles it's up on the lift.

Tools Needed to Check & Change Motor Mounts

1. A good flashlight or drop light.


2. Floor jack and/or jack stand.


3. Vehicle lift is nice but not always necessary.


4. Jack screw if working with the car on a lift.


5. Hand tools like wrenches, sockets, ratchets and extensions.

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CV joint replacement requires specific tools for the job. Find out what tools you need to replace the CV joint in this free auto repair video. Expert: Nathan McCullough Bio: Nathan McCullough graduated from Nashville Auto-Diesel College with a GPA of 3.5 and received their Craftsmanship Award and Honor Seal. Filmmaker: Robert Rogers

Aircraft Structural Components

The major aircraft structures are wings, fuselage, and empennage. The primary flight control surfaces, located on the wings and empennage, are ailerons, elevators, and rudder. These parts are connected by seams, called joints.

All joints constructed using rivets, bolts, or special fasteners are lap joints. Fasteners cannot be used on joints in which the materials to be joined do not overlap - for example, butt, tee and edge joints. A fayed edge is a type of lap joint made when two metal surfaces are butted up against one another in such a way as to overlap.

Internal aircraft parts are manufactured in four ways: Milling, stamping, bending, and extruding. The metal of a milled part is transformed from cast to wrought by first shaping and then either chemically etching or grinding it. A stamped part is annealed, placed in a forming press, and then re-heat treated.

Bent parts are made by sheet metal mechanics using the bend allowance and layout procedures. An extrusion is an aircraft part which is formed by forcing metal through a preshaped die. The resulting wrought forms are used as spars, stringers, longerons, or channels. In order for metal to be extruded, bent, or formed, it must first be made malleable and ductile by annealing. After the forming operation, the metal is re-heat treated and age hardened.

Airbus Wings

Here in the UK and in particular at the Airbus facility in North Wales, our expertise is in the manufacture of aircraft wings. Aircraft wings have to be strong enough to withstand the positive forces of flight as well as the negative forces of landing. Metal wings are of two types: Semicantilever and full cantilever. Semicantilever, or braced, wings are used on light aircraft. They are externally supported by struts or flying wires which connect the wing spar to the fuselage. A full cantilever wing is usually made of stronger metal. It requires no external bracing or support. The skin carries part of the wing stress. Parts common to both wing designs are spars, compression ribs, former ribs, stringers, stress plates, gussets. wing tips and wing skins.

Airbus at Broughton employs more than 5,000 people, mostly in manufacturing, but also in engineering and support functions such as procurement and finance.

Wing Spars

Two or more spars are used in the construction of a wing. They carry the main longitudinal -butt to tip - load of the wing. Both the spar and a compression rib connect the wing to the fuselage.

Compression Ribs

Compression ribs carry the main load in the direction of flight, from leading edge to trailing edge. On some aircraft the compression rib is a structural piece of tubing separating two main spars. The main function of the compression rib is to absorb the force applied to the spar when the aircraft is in flight.

Former Ribs

A former rib, which is made from light metal, attaches to the stringers and wing skins to give the wing its aerodynamic shape. Former ribs can be classified as nose ribs, trailing edge ribs, and mid ribs running fore and aft between the front and rear spar on the wing. Formers are not considered primary structural members.

Stringers

Stringers are made of thin sheets of preformed extruded or hand-formed aluminum alloy. They run front to back along the fuselage and from wing butt to wing tip. Riveting the wing skin to both the stringer and the ribs gives the wing additional strength.

Stress Plates

Stress plates are used on wings to support the weight of the fuel tank. Some stress plates are made of thick metal and some are of thin metal corrugated for strength. Stress plates are usually held in place by long rows of machine screws, with self-locking nuts, that thread into specially mounted channels. The stress-plate channeling is riveted to the spars and compression ribs.

Gussets

Gussets, or gusset plates, are used on aircraft to join and reinforce intersecting structural members. Gussets are used to transfer stresses from one member to another at the point where the members join.

Wing Tips

The wing tip, the outboard end of the wing, has two purposes: To aerodynamically smooth out the wing tip air flow and to give the wing a finished look.

Wing Skins

Wing skins cover the internal parts and provide for a smooth air flow over the surface of the wing. On full cantilever wings, the skins carry stress. However, all wing skins are to be treated as primary structures whether they are on braced or full cantilever surfaces.

Fuselage Assemblies.

The largest of the aircraft structural components, there are two types of metal aircraft fuselages: Full monocoque and semimonocoque. The full monocoque fuselage has fewer internal parts and a more highly stressed skin than the semimonocoque fuselage, which uses internal bracing to obtain its strength.

The full monocoque fuselage is generally used on smaller aircraft, because the stressed skin eliminates the need for stringers, former rings, and other types of internal bracing, thus lightening the aircraft structure.

The semimonocoque fuselage derives its strength from the following internal parts: Bulkheads, longerons, keel beams, drag struts, body supports, former rings, and stringers.

Bulkheads

A bulkhead is a structural partition, usually located in the fuselage, which normally runs perpendicular to the keel beam or longerons. A few examples of bulkhead locations are where the wing spars connect into the fuselage, where the cabin pressurization domes are secured to the fuselage structure, and at cockpit passenger or cargo entry doors.

Longerons And Keel Beams

Longerons and keel beams perform the same function in an aircraft fuselage. They both carry the bulk of the load traveling fore and aft. The keel beam and longerons, the strongest sections of the airframe, tie its weight to other aircraft parts, such as powerplants, fuel cells, and the landing gears.

Drag Struts And Other Fittings

Drag struts and body support fittings are other primary structural members. Drag struts are used on large jet aircraft to tie the wing to the fuselage center section. Body support fittings are used to support the structures which make up bulkhead or floor truss sections.

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former rings.

Aircraft Empennage Section

The empennage is the tail section of an aircraft. It consists of a horizontal stabilizer, elevator, vertical stabilizer and rudder. The conventional empennage section contains the same kind of parts used in the construction of a wing. The internal parts of the stabilizers and their flight controls are made with spars, ribs, stringers and skins.

Also, tail sections, like wings, can be externally or internally braced.

Horizontal Stabilizer And Elevator

The horizontal stabilizer is connected to a primary control surface, i.e., the elevator. The elevator causes the nose of the aircraft to pitch up or down. Together, the horizontal stabilizer and elevator provide stability about the horizontal axis of the aircraft. On some aircraft the horizontal stabilizer is made movable by a screw jack assembly which allows the pilot to trim the aircraft during flight.

Vertical Stabilizer And Rudder

The vertical stabilizer is connected to the aft end of the fuselage and gives the aircraft stability about the vertical axis. Connected to the vertical stabilizer is the rudder, the purpose of which is to turn the aircraft about its vertical axis.

Ailerons

Elevators and rudders are primary flight controls in the tail section. Ailerons are primary flight controls connected to the wings. Located on the outboard portion of the wing, they allow the aircraft to turn about the longitudinal axis.

When the right aileron is moved upward, the left one goes down, thus causing the aircraft to roll to the right. Because this action creates a tremendous force, the ailerons must be constructed in such a way as to withstand it.

Flight controls other than the three primary ones are needed on high-performance aircraft. On the wings of a wide-body jet, for example, there are as many as thirteen flight controls, including high and low-speed ailerons, flaps, and spoilers.

Flaps And Spoilers

Wing flaps increase the lift for take-off and landing. Inboard and outboard flaps, on the trailing edge of the wing, travel from full up, which is neutral aerodynamic flow position, to full down, causing air to pile up and create lift. Leading edge flaps - Krueger flaps and variable-camber flaps - increase the wing chord size and thus allow the aircraft to take off or land on a shorter runway. Spoilers, located in the center section span-wise, serve two purposes. They assist the high-speed ailerons in turning the aircraft during flight, and they are used to kill the aerodynamic lift during landing by spreading open on touchdown.

Trim Tabs

Connected to the primary flight controls are devices called trim tabs. They are used to make fine adjustments to the flight path of an aircraft. Trim tabs are constructed like wings or ailerons, but are
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