Buying a Used Motorhome

Registration Documents
Check the motorhome's registration document carefully. In particular, look at the model and type, and taxation class details. Avoid a motorhome whose vehicle registration document carries incorrect details under either of those two headings.

Service History
Make sure you buy a motorhome that has a service history. At the very least you should ask to see the previous MOT certificates so that you can check whether or not the claimed mileage is genuine.

Wheel Tread
Check that the tread on all tyres has worn evenly and that there are no cracks or splits in the walls. Check the inside tyre walls. Uneven tread wear could be an indication of more serious problems, so walk away.

Check underneath
Check the chassis and exhaust system for corrosion. Look for obvious signs of oil leaks and inspect the condition of the hydraulic pipes, electrical cables, water and waste pipes.

Outside Condition
Look at the sides of the motorhome, from each end, for signs of dents and other damage. In the case of aluminium sides, also check for signs of corrosion which are likely to manifest itself by tiny pinholes where the paint has come away. Also, signs of paint over-spray can mean a poor bodywork repair following an accident. If it looks serious, it probably is, so walk away. Gaps in the sealant, or sealant which is no longer sticking to the bodywork, are signs that resealing is necessary, which is certain to be expensive. Also, don't forget to check the roof - a dirty top-side may be concealing damage, for breaks in the sealant.

Inside Condition
In the case of a coachbuilt or A-class motorhome, press the walls inside and ceiling firmly to check for any signs of softness which would indicate possible water ingress. In particular, check in the corners under the seats and base units because this is often where water ingress first appears. Stained wallboard is another adverse sign which should not be ignored.

Windows
Check all plastic windows in the motorhome for gouges and deep scratch damage. Scratches can often be polished out but deep marks or other damage may mean that the window has to be replaced - a plastic window for a motorhome is an expensive item. While you are examining the windows, gently lift the seal in different areas - if the frame is black, this is almost certainly due to water ingress.

Flooring
Make sure you walk all over the floor, feeling for soft spots which may indicate delamination. It is possible to repair this but it may be a sign of more significant structural problems, now or in the future.

Bathroom
In the bathroom, check the condition of the sealant around the toilet, shower and basin. If a mat is fitted in the shower tray, lift it to check for cracks in the tray. Depending on the age of the motorhome it can sometimes be impossible to find a replacement for a damaged item such as this.
 
Owner's Manual
Ask to see the owners' manual, and suppliers' instructions for the various items of equipment in the motorhome. Careful owners will have kept them.

These checks are far from exhaustive, but they offer some areas to think about when looking over the motorhome. A well looked after motorhome will keep its value and could well be a great investment for all those holidays both home and abroad. Just like when buying an expensive car, it is well worth the time looking over your investment thoroughly before parting with your cash.

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Home Foundation Support for Safety

Most foundation support systems are used to keep the house in good condition, and to keep a home completely safe. If the foundation of a home crumbles, sags, or is overly compromised, this presents very serious safety concerns for families. Protecting the life of your home is also a very important investment considering one of your largest assets is your home. Different types of foundations can pose different safety threats, and will have different types of anchor support systems to compensate for the damage.

Many circumstances might arise that make a foundation need to be jacked up to a different elevation. The way this is done is using hydraulic jack systems with helical anchors that drive deep into the ground beneath the home. This specific process also does not disturb your landscaping and yard too much, keeping a clean look for the exterior of the home. By going through this relatively easy process, it will make your home safer against flooding, and against weak soil that can allow your foundation to sag.

Basement walls are a large concern when it comes to the integrity of the overall home. The reason being is because these walls are usually load-bearing walls, and these walls are up against soil that surrounds your home. Having cracks in these walls can cause leaking, which will make basements very musty, and possibly moldy. A crack usually will start small, and grow at a rapid pace if not properly treated as soon as possible. A method of reinforcing these exterior basement walls is to use carbon fiber support plates that give these walls the support they need so the integrity is consistently at one hundred percent.

Most homes are sitting on a slab of concrete that acts as the foundation. These slabs over time can sag, crack, and even begin to sink. To not only fix these types of damages, but also to prevent them as well, there are slab support systems that can properly bring your slab together. The floor will be raised with a hydraulic jack, and then filled in with concrete. This will make your foundation like new, and keep the safety of your home intact. A grout system can be used as well. This grout is forced under the sagging areas of the foundation to ensure the structural integrity of the floor is strong enough for your home to be completely safe. The entire purpose of supporting and fixing foundations is to keep a home safe, and keep the home intact for value considerations down the road.

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DIY Brake Pad Replacement - How to Change Pads and Avoid Common Mistakes

Doing your own brake job, if done properly can save a lot of money. But if a brake job is done improperly it could very well cost more than if a professional was paid to do the job to begin with. I've done hundreds of brake jobs in the last 25 years as a Master Auto Technician and in this article I'll outline some of the basics. I also point out some common mistakes that beginners and even pros can make when doing a brake job.

Pulsating?

If the car shakes when the brakes are applied, this means that the brake rotors are warped. Excessive side to side run-out causes the car to shake especially when stopping quickly from highway speeds. The rotors can be machined or resurfaced to make them true again as long as they are thick enough. If there is no pulsation or brake shake, brake pads can be replaced without machining them. In my experience though, if machining or replacing the rotors is not done when doing a brake job, most of the time there will be excessive squeaking noises after a very short time. I recommend taking care of the rotors by having them machined or replaced when doing the brake job.

Lifting the Car Safely

Sounds a little too basic doesn't it? I've seen many people under cars without having a jack stand in place for safety. Hydraulic jacks are great, but what if one slips or fails in some way while someones under the car working? I can't emphasize enough the importance of having the car safely raised with a jack stand in place, just in case the car falls for some reason. A jack stand under the car is very important for anytime work is to be done under the car, like for oil changes, starter replacement or any other job that could crush a person if the jack failed. I once worked with a mechanic that was changing his starter at home. His hydraulic jack had a slow leak and before he realized that the car was lowering gradually onto him, he was pinned under the car and couldn't get out from under it. The compressing of his chest only allowed him to take very shallow breaths of air, which limited his ability to cry for help! Luckily a friend stopped by, saw what was happening and raised the car for him. If not for luck this could have had a totally different outcome, his mistake could have cost him his life.

Removing Wheels, Calipers and Rotors

After removing the wheels find the caliper bolts and check to see what type of head the bolts have to determine what tools will be needed. Common fasteners will have either regular bolt heads, allen or torx. Typically there will be two bolts holding the caliper and two bolts holding the caliper bracket. Usually just the caliper can be removed if just replacing the brake pads. Suspend the caliper with an elastic cord or something similar to prevent the weight of the caliper from possibly damaging the brake hose. If the rotor is being removed to be machined or replaced most of the time the caliper bracket will need to be removed as well. Rotors will either just slide off or on older style setups will be held on by the wheel bearings. Most cars today will have rotors that slide off. The wheel bearings on this design are not serviceable, meaning they are lifetime greased and can only be replaced when they fail so they are not repacked with grease during a brake job like in the past.

Pushing the Piston

Pushing the brake caliper piston back in is required to install the new brake pads. The piston slowly extends out as the brake pads wear. This is why no brake adjustment is needed for the disc brake system, it's basically self adjusting. Big channel lock pliers can be used to compress the piston back into the caliper. There are also brake tools that can be used to push the piston back in. A big C-clamp used to be my favorite method for returning the piston back into the caliper. If working on rear disc brakes, a piston wind back tool like the KD 41540 (one of DenLors best sellers) is usually required to push and turn the pistons back in. It is recommended to open the brake bleeder screw when pushing the piston, this allows it to go back in easier and prevents possible damage to the master cylinder and/or ABS (Anti Lock Brakes) pump or valves from forcing old fluid back into the system. Closing the bleeder valve immediately after the caliper piston is pushed back in will insure that bleeding the brakes will not be necessary. If dust boots in the caliper are broken, caliper replacement is necessary. Broken boots will allow moisture and dirt to enter the surrounding area of the piston and will cause it to stick or seize. There are slides on some caliper brackets that can freeze up or seize also that can cause uneven pad wear. The slides should be taken apart and lubricated with silicone gel or disc brake grease. The slides must work freely for the brakes to work properly.

Installing the Brake Pads and Calipers

Take note of any possible differences in left side brake pads and right side brake pads. Also there is sometimes differences in inboard and outboard brake pads. Obviously the friction part of the brake pad goes towards the rotor. My uncle a long time ago, before I ever started working on cars did a brake job on his Cadillac. I remember hearing that he placed the brake pads in backwards! He ruined his brake rotors. It seems like an impossible mistake, but when you're not familiar with what you're doing anything is possible. With aftermarket brake pads, most of the time they will come with their own noise insulators that fit onto the back of the pads. Some will have adhesive backs that will have plastic to peel off before installing, others may have tabs built into them. Note that if these are supplied, the OE (Original Equipment) pad insulators will not be re-used. After the pads are in place, be careful not to TWIST the brake caliper hoses when putting the calipers back on. It's a common mistake to twist them and the hoses can kink on turns.

Pump the Brake Pedal!

After everything is back together, it's time for a test drive. But first pump the brake pedal before putting the car in gear! The pedal will go to the floor and you may be headed for a crash if you don't. When the pedal is pumped the pistons are pushed out and the pedal becomes firm. There was an auto technician that I worked with that forgot to pump the brakes after doing a brake job. He backed out of his service bay, when he hit the the brakes the car kept going and he drove into the car that was half way up on the rack behind him. It broke the rear window of the car he was driving, luckily there was no other damage.

There are many types of brake systems but most disc brakes are basically the same. Following the steps I've listed here should help in replacing your brake pads. But if you are not completely confident, it's always a good idea to ask a friend that has some hands on experience to help guide you through your first brake job.

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Foundation Repair

The principal function of a foundation of a home is to transfer the weight of a structure to its underlying soil and rocks. One of the factors that bring about the need for foundation repairs is improper foundation settling. Foundation settlement can devalue structures and also render them unsafe. Building on expansive clay, compressive or improperly contracted fill soils and improper maintenance in and around foundations are some of the major reasons of improper foundation settling. Another reason for improper foundation settlement is undetected or unsuspected air pockets in the ground below the area of construction. These may cave in and cause the integrity of the foundation to be compromised.

General symptoms of a structure needing foundation repairs are bulging or cracked walls and doors that don't close properly. Building on expansive soils is the main culprit for foundation settlement. When only one part of the foundation either settles or heaves, cracks are formed in the foundation. The exterior warning signs of improper floor settling are rotation of walls, displaced moldings, cracked bricks and foundation and separation around doors and windows from the walls. Interior warning signs of improper floor settling are cracks on the floor, sheet rock and misalignment in doors and windows.

There are many ways of doing foundation repair. Cement, stone, steel or wood were used extensively in past techniques. They would be forced into the ground in a bid to salvage the strength of these foundations. However, this type of repair work has been known to be futile. Two of the most successful ways of foundation repairs are slab jacking and the Piering method. Piering is also known as hydraulic jacking.

Slab jacking is the process of adding grout beneath a slab or beam. This produces a lifting force and restores the said beam or slab to almost its original elevation and adds to its strength. Care should be taken that the amount of sand should be perfect while adding grout.

During Piering, steel posts are driven through unstable soil. Hydraulic jacks are used to stabilize concrete slabs which are weakened due to the changes taking place in the underlying soil. Steel beams are used in the Piering method because concrete has great compressive strength. Though Piers are able to transfer huge downward loads without the help of reinforcing steel, steel is used in the piers for prevention of the pier from being pulled apart or sheared by forces of the expansive soils. The repairs normally take 21 to 30 days, however this time frame can vary depending on soil conditions and weather delays.